CHURAH VALLEY
the unxplored Himachal
the unxplored Himachal
It had been a long time.. I was dying to see Himalayas ... My last trip in the mountains was a bike ride to 'Choukodi' in Uttarachal (1,100kms) last December (2005) so it was almost 4 months.
I asked my boss for a Chutti and yessss...i got it...4 full days.
I started planning the trip. Decided to explore Pangi Valley. There was not much information available on this part of Himachal. I tried to collect it from all sorts of available resources, but as expected it was useless. Not even the Himachal Government Information department or its Tourism department had any official information on this valley or its adjacent area. So I decided jaha tak bhi rasta le jaega,, chala jaunga..
As this was going to be my first solo ride, I started gathering necessary things for the trip like a saddle bag, electric pump, bungee cords, etc.
I have posted some more information and relevant videos on touristhelpline.com
DAY 0
23 April' 06, Sunday
Delhi to Panchkula (Haryana)
It was a Sunday, but not a holiday for me. I was working in office, but my mind was wandering in Himalayas. I was eagerly waiting for cruising on the Highways.
It was 6 pm and my boss finally said 'Go'. Rushed towards home and packed all the things in Four small bags. And finally at 7 pm, I started for Chandigarh. Bike started cruising at 100 kmph after I reached at NH-1. I took my first halt after 140 kms at a place called Samana near Kurukshetra. Took rest on a manji at a dhaba. After spending some 15-20 minutes at the dhaba I started again. Now the speedometer was touching 108kmph. It was thrilling experience for me to cross 100kmph for the first time.
Reached Panchkula near Chandigarh at 11 pm. Within 4 hours from Delhi.
Day 0 Trip meter - 252 kms
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DAY 1
24 apr 06, monday
Panchkula to Chowari (Himachal)
via Chandigarh, Ropar, Anandpur sahib, Nangal, Bhakra Dam, Una, Talwada, Pong dam
Got up at 7 am. After relishing Aaloo ka paranthas with dahi at Mousi Ji's sasural started the ride at 9 am from Panchkula.
This was a canal somewhere between Chandigarh and Ropar.
The scenic beauty forced me to stop for a click.
The scenic beauty forced me to stop for a click.
Gurudwara Anandpur Sahib
It was around 12 pm. I was at Nangal. Bhakra Dam was around 20 kms away from here. Now road to Chamba was on left and Bhakra on my right. I was supposed to go towards Chamba, but could not resist myself to visit The Mighty 'Bhakra Dam'.
Now this is the biggest benefit of being solo on such long rides. I didn't had to take anybody's consent. I was a freebird. I Could do whatever I wanted.
After travelling about 15 kms, came a barrier which was the border of Punjab and Himachal. A Policewala stopped me and started asking questions. A lone biker having Delhi's registration number loaded with 3-4 bags has enough reasons to become anybody little curious. I replied bhaiyya Bhakara dekhne jana hai. chala jaaun? Then he informed me that I was supposed to take permission from the PRO office, which I left 2 kms back. I didn't had option. Went back. Got the permission very easily and then crossed the barrier. After crossing the border, hills started. Now I was in Himachal Pradesh.
no its not Pangong Tso, This is Govind Sagar lake.
The road from here leads to Naina devi temple, which is a famous shrine.
The road from here leads to Naina devi temple, which is a famous shrine.
It was 1.30 pm. I was hungry. But I knew I don't have to wander here and there in search of food. I was in 'Sikh land', how could I ignore The Gurudwara. Somebody guided me about Gurudwara Bhabour Sahib, which was on the way to Nangal. I reached there at 2 pm.
etthe guru da langar chhaka - Gurudwara Bhabour sahib
Trip meter - 416 kms
Crossed Talwada and Pong dam. Petrol was about to finish. People guided me to a newly established petrol pump. They believed the new one will not give adulterated fuel. Reached at Assam Oil pump at a place called Raja ka Talab.
It was 6 pm, getting dark. I decided to stay at Chowari which was the nearest place having a government rest house. Reached at Chowari at 8 pm got a rest house.
Chowari is a small town. Found a dhaba near the rest house. Had a nice time with the locals while having the dinner. They said Chamba is just 2 hours drive away from here. This route is shorter than Jalandhar - Pathankot highway for going Chamba. Called some people in Chamba from a STD booth and discussed about next days plan.
day 1
trip meter - 602 kms
I have posted some more information and relevant videos on touristhelpline.com
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DAY 2
24 April' 06, Monday
Chowari to Bairagarh
via Jot, Khajjiar, Chamba, Tissa, Tarela and Kaalavan
Got up at 5.30 and started at 6 am for Chamba. Crossed Jot, a small village. Locals said some scenes of Sunny Deol's Gadar were shot around this village.
Jot means a pass
.. and here comes Khajjiar
Khajjiar - 2,412mts. I reached here at 8 am
CHAMBA (an ancient town)
Chamba at 995 mts is quite hotter than other places. This is also the District Headquarters of the district Chamba.
Chamba to Bairagarh via Tissa
the road from Chamba to Bairagarh is OK. Distance is about 90 kms.
snow capped mountains.
Churah Valley started somewhere near Koti, a village from where one road goes to Bhandal valley and other towards Pangi.
On the way I visited a village called DeviKothi which is 3-4 kms away from the road. I left the bike and the bags at a chai stall. Devi Kothi has a temple known for its architecture.
I have posted some more information and relevant videos on touristhelpline.com
I have posted some more information and relevant videos on touristhelpline.com
Reached Bairagarh at 4.30 pm. This is the last village on this road towards Kilar (pronounced as Kilaad). Kilaad is the administrative headquarters of Pangi region. From Bairagarh, next comes Kalavan which is a dense forest, then comes Satrundi and then comes Sach Pass. Road around Sach is one of the toughest roads in India.
Just after crossing Bairagarh, the metalled road vanishes. This route is fully covered with dense forest. Temperature started decreasing rapidly. It was scary to ride alone. If something happens to me, there would be no body for my rescue as the road is closed ahead due to snow. So nobody accept Police patroling team cross Bairagarh in this season.
Beautiful landscapes around Satrundi
and here is my first encounter with snow)
I reached very near to Satrundi, a makeshift police post which is established only after melting of snow. This happens around June-July. This area borders Jammu &Kashmir. In 1998, 30 labourers were shot dead by Militants who came from Jammu & Kashmir. Since then this area is under high surveillance of Himachal police and paramilitary forces.
Now I could see the solid ice over the road. I tried to pull the bike very slowly for a distance.
I 'parked' the bike at a safe place. Safe here means a slush free road, where I and my bike could manage to stand. Aur yaha se main paidal hi chal pada.. Went just few meters ahead and found this Bulldozer. The District administration is trying to clear the road till Kilaad before June.
....main bhoot hoon.. :)
while coming back from Kaalavan
while coming back from Kaalavan
Came back to Bairagarh which has a small PWD rest house. 3 of the 4 rooms of the rest house were occupied by the police. I got the room at the first floor after a short session of enquiry. I came down to have dinner with the police walas and enjoyed their company. They shared lots of information on Churah and surrounding area.
day 2
trip meter - 808 kms
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DAY 3
25 april 06, Tuesday
Bairagarh to Langera (Bhandal Valley) & ...............Dalhousie
via Tarela, Baira syul hydel power project, Salooni, Bhandal, Langera, (back to Salooni) Sundla, Chamera hydel power project, Banikhet, Dalhousie
Today I got up very early. Had Chai biscut in breakfast and started for Bhandal Valley. From Baira syul project the road divides. Left goes towards Chamba and Right towards Salooni.
Churah valley....
bridge on Siul Nala
After Salooni the landscape changes. The valley is much colourful here.
After Salooni the landscape changes. The valley is much colourful here.
There was a road connection from Bhandal valley to Bhaderwah & DODA in Jammu &Kashmir, but due to militancy it has been closed. People living in this area look and speak like Kashmiris. Even the landscape is quite similar to Kashmir.
Khundimaral is the border of HP & J&K. However, No vehicle is allowed to go beyond Langera.
I have posted some more information and relevant videos on touristhelpline.com
This board is at Langera. I reached here at 2.30 pm.. (trip meter 931)
otherside of the board
the Himalyan kids
While wandering in this valley, I found some vanity vans having MH number plates. I enquired the locals and came to know that a film is being shooted in the area. I had a chance to meet some the crew members of the film at a dhaba while having lunch. They informed a film, named - Dor - under the direction of famous Bollywood director Nagesh Kukunoor is being shot here.
It was good to speak to some Marathi speaking people in this area. After spending some time I started again. After travelling few distance, I came across few more people on the road. I stopped again to meet them. I found Nagesh Kukunoor was also standing with them. I was very glad to see him. I went near him and introduced myself. He was also anxious to know about me and what I was doing alone in this remote area. I advised me to watch 'Motorcycle diaries'. I didn't heard of this film that time. It was a short conversation with him but I enjoyed a lot. He told that this film 'Dor' is expected to release in August this year. Shreyas Talpade and Gul Panag will be starring in this film.
I started again and reached Salooni and then Sundla. From Sundla again the road bifurcates. One goes to Chamba, other to Banikhet & Pathankot via Chamera hydropower project.
lake at Chamera dam..
day 3
trip meter - 1039 kms
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DAY 4
26 April 06, Wednesday
Dalhousie to Delhi
via Banikhet, Pathankot, Bhogpur, Jalandhar, Khatkad kalaan, Nawashahar, Khanna, Ambala, Karnal
Today was going to be the most tiring day of the trip. Delhi is more than 600 kms from Dalhousie.
Started at 6.50 am from Dalhousie and first went to Panchpula which is 2 kms away. Panchpula is the samadhisthal of Shaheed Ajeet Singh. He was Chacha (uncle) of Shaheed Bhagat Singh. He inspired Bhagat Singh. He was also a great Krantikari in his time. He died on the very same morning when India got independence. It is said that he could not bear the partition of India and Pakistan.
Shaheed Ajeet singh
the memorial
Punjab-Himachal border on Pathankot-Dalhousie road
National Highway to Delhi
The National Highway is being converted into 6 lanes near Pathankot, so could not maintain good speed till Bhogpur, a village. After Bhogpur, bike started cruising and reached Jalandhar at 12 pm. Took left from NH-1 towards Banga and Nawashahar to visit Bhagat Singh's ancestral home at Khatkad kalaan..
langard at Gurudwara SukhChainAana Sahib.
Trip meter - 1281 kms
It was very hot in Punjab. I had to take lots of breaks for taking water.
Ancestral house of Bhagat Singh at village Khatkadkalaan in Banga (Jalandhar, Punjab)
I reached Ambala at 7.15pm .....trip meter 1455 kms... Tired. Petrolled the bike here, as the fuel is cheaper in Haryana than Punjab.
Break before Karnal at 8.15 pm.......... trip meter 1521 kms.......Very Tired.
Torrential rains with wind slowed down speed to 30-40 kmph. Due to this I had to take a halt at Gannaur for 30-40 min.
Reached Home at 11.40 pm ............Exhausted.
day 3
trip meter - 1649 kms
I have posted some more information and relevant videos on touristhelpline.com
TOTAL -
distance travelled - 1649 kms
hours on trip - 100 hrs
petrol cost - 1,585
bike misc - 450
food and stay - 330 ( please don't ask me how ;-) )
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Rs. 2,365
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TOP -
speed - 108 kmph
alt. - 10,000 feet at Kalaban (approx. as told by the policewalaz)
** (Best time for visiting Pangi Valley is July-August )
